Marathon, volleyball, and Ancient Agora

Quick recap of the past few days:

As mentioned in the previous post, on Wednesday we went to Marathon and Ramnous.  Ramnous was a rural city in ancient Greece and the site of the temples of Themis and Nemesis.  There we got to see unpublished finds that are not open to the public, which was a cool experience.  Marathon was the site of the important Athenian victory in the Persian War, and we visited the museum there.  We also "reinacted" the battle on the hillside.  I was on the Perian side, so unfortunately we lost. 
On Thursday, we didn't have an excursion in the morning, so a bunch of us played volleyball at the courts near the National Gardens.  I had a lot of fun!
Yesterday, we had class at the Ancient Agora.  We were split into groups and had to present the different buildings there.  I liked it, and I got a taste of what it would be like to be a tour guide, which I'm pretty sure I would not want to be.  My groups' presentation went very well, and we got a silver medal.  In the evening, we were planning on going to hear some Greek blues, bouzaki, but we ended up not going.  We went to a cafe, but drinks were so expensive we just left and went back home.  At least it was a nice walk...
Today, it is cooler and drizzling a little.  I wanted to go to the Opera tonight, but the remaining tickets are too expensive for our student budgets. 
To explain why there are no pictures in this post:  My laptop's battery charger (AC adapter) is failing me, so I can't charge my computer.  I'm writing this post at an internet cafe.  A friend of mine has the same problem, but we haven't had much success finding replacements.  We'll have to wait until Monday to continue our search since most things are closed on the weekends.  So until I find a way to charge my laptop, I can't get pictures off of my camera. 

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

I haven’t posted in 5 days! Eek! I don’t like getting behind like this…

Here’s what has been going on:
As I wrote at the end of my last post, my friend Christen was in Athens for a few days last week.  It was great to see her, and Thursday night, along with the others girls she was traveling with, we went to an excellent taverna near my apartment called Ep’ Avli.  Yummy food and good company made for a great evening. J
The final paper for the first third (the equivalent of one quarter) of my Greek civilization class was due on Sunday, so I spent some of Friday and most of Saturday working on that.  I got it done on Saturday, so I was able to go to the beach on Sunday!  Also, on Saturday night we had a potluck dinner in my friend’s apartment.  I made a no-bake chocolate mousse cake from a kit I bought at the grocery store.  It was pretty easy to make, and I made sure to pick one that also had English directions (there were only two like that so I didn’t have much to choose from).  Saturday night, I went to see Titanomaxia (Clash of the Titans) at a movie theatre, which is inside a mall, not far from my apartment.  We were able to get the student price (yay!) with our UChicago IDs, which was 7.50 Euros.  They have popcorn and drinks, and the one surprising thing was that there are assigned seats- I did not expect that.  The theatre was small, and the movie was in English with Greek subtitles.  The movie itself was kind of ridiculous, but it was cool to have gone to a lot of the places mentioned in the movie.

On Sunday, a few of us went to a beach near the Edem tram station.  It was a nice day, although a little windy and a tiny bit overcast.  We played some volleyball and relaxed.  The water was very clear, but also very cold, so I didn’t swim.  The beach is pretty rocky and dirty.  There are pieces of garbage everywhere in the sand.  Overall, it was fun.  We heard about some nicer beaches that are accessible by bus, so maybe I’ll try those next time. 
Monday was the beginning of the 2nd part of the Greek civilization class with a new professor, and yesterday we went to the Acropolis to see all the buildings built on top.  It only took us three weeks to make it to the most famous landmark in Athens!  There is a lot of history at the Acropolis, and a great effort to document and reconstruct this history in the best way possible.  The buildings on the Acropolis, especially the Parthenon, are constantly undergoing restoration, and yesterday was no exception.  The Temple of Athena Nike as well as the Parthenon are currently being worked on.

Today, we went to Marathon and Ramnous on a full day trip, but I’ll write more about that tomorrow.  

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Christen is visiting!

Some background on Meteora, as promised: The cliffs were formed about 60 billion years ago, and earthquakes and erosion have shaped them.  The seabed may have been pushed up, and the horizontal lines on the cliffs may be marks from the sea.  The Hermit monks first lived in the caves of the cliffs in the 9th century.  It is not know for certain when the monasteries were first established, but the monks sought refuge there when the Turks were invading.  
This morning we went to the Karameikos cemetery, the old cemetery of Athens.  It is a pretty big site, and we learned about death in ancient Greece and funerary practices. 

Christen, my friend from home who has been studying architecture this entire year in Paris, is visiting for the next three days.  I’m very excited to see her and show her around Athens!! J

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

I'm on Pandora!

Before I start writing about the AMAZING place I’m at this weekend- Meteora, let me start by writing about our foray into Athenian nightlife on Friday night.  We took the Metro to a neighborhood called Gazi, which is full of bars, but there aren’t like American bars; they’re more like cafes with a bar inside.  Right when you exit the Metro station, everything was bustling, even though it was midnight.  There were vendors selling souvlaki, sunglasses, etc (basically everything that is sold on the street during the day).  This is the complete opposite of what you would find in Pangrati, the neighborhood we live in, at that time of night.  There is a row of bars with loud music and modern furniture on the patios, where people sit, drink, and talk.  We looked for a bar called Bar Rouge, because a friend knew someone who was playing in a band there, but we never found it.  We did get a nice idea of the bars in the area by walking around trying to find Bar Rouge.  When we decided to give up searching for the bar, we met up with the rest of our group at another bar, in which we took up the entire second floor.  Drinks are just as expensive here as they are in bars in Chicago.  I paid 7 Euro for a Malibu and pineapple!  After we left that bar, we wanted to find somewhere where there was dancing.  This was difficult because there were only bars around, no clubs.  We found a place on the main strip of bars with some dancing, but even there, people were just dancing around their tables because there was no dance floor.  We danced for a while, then took a taxi home since at that time, the Metro was closed.  It was a fun night, and it was nice to see some Greek people our age.

Now on to Meteora!  Meteora is in northern Greece, so we had a nice 5 hour train ride through Greece to get here.  We arrived at 2pm.  On the train ride, I realized that I had forgotten to print out or write down the address of the hotel.  We tried to find the hotel on the map by the train station, but it wasn’t on there.  We asked a taxi driver, and he pointed us in the right direction.  Along the way, we kept asking people we saw if they knew where Hotel Odysseon was.  This was really effective, and we made it to our hotel without getting lost. 

There are six monasteries on top of the rocks, each one on a different cliff/mountain, that are open to the public.  Since not all eight of us were staying two nights, we wanted to get started seeing the monasteries right away.  Different monasteries have different hours, however, and the walk to get to the monasteries is about 30 min to an hour depending on which one you are going to, so we were only able to make it to one monastery, Rousanou.  We walked along the road to Holy Trinity monastery and up the stairs from which there was an amazing view, but we weren’t able to go inside the monastery.  There was a path down the mountain that led to Kalabaka, which we took back.  After going back to the hotel to rest a little and clean up, we went out to dinner at a taverna.  We treated ourselves to retsina (wine) with dinner and chocolate soufflé for dessert.  We planned on watching a movie together that night, but we were all so tired from traveling and walking that we went to bed.

This morning, we woke up early, had a good breakfast at the hotel, and set out to see the monasteries.  We went to the Great Meteoron monastery first, and we took a beautiful, but strenuous walk up a mountain path to get there.  The monastery has a church, museum, and spectacular views.  There aren’t many pictures from the inside of the monastery, because photography is not allowed in many rooms.  Women aren’t allowed in if they are wearing pants, so there are wrap-around skirts you wear while in the monastery.  We also saw Varlaam, St. Nicholas’, and St. Stephen’s monasteries today.  There are beautiful frescoes inside the churches.  Half of our group had to catch the train to Athens in the evening, and the remaining four of us had dinner at a pizzeria.  Tomorrow, I’m going to the one monastery we haven’t seen yet, Holy Trinity.  I’ll write more about the history of Meteora tomorrow.  

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Museum and some Thoughts


This morning, we went to the National Museum in Athens.  It houses a lot of artifacts from the sites we visited on the trip I just returned from.  Pictures were allowed there, but I didn’t take too many because I feel that the outdoor sites and monuments are much more impressive and worthy of being photographed. 
One thing I’ve noticed at all the museums we’ve been to is that it’s very difficult to identify the employees, until they approach you to tell you not to get too close or not to use flash when taking pictures or to ask for our permit.  This is because they wear casual clothing and do not have any sort of identification that they are museum staff.  The one exception so far is the Acropolis Museum, where staff are dressed in dark suits with name tags and headsets- very official.  At the other museums, it looks like a visitor in the museum sat down in a chair in the corner of the room and started texting or chatting away on their cell phone.  The women have their purse next to the chair and usually some water.  I am really surprised by this.  I’m not saying museum staff should be dressed formally in suits like at the Acropolis Museum, but I think some kind of uniformity or identification is necessary. 

After the trip to the museum, a group of us that is going to Meteora this weekend went to Larissa Station, the train station, to buy our tickets for tomorrow.  This is another “culture shock” experience.  At the station, there is a specific section for buying tickets in advance.  You have to take a number then approach the window when it’s your turn.  That was fine, but when we got to the window, it was up to me to use my Greek skills to get the tickets.  It was a challenge!  Everything would have been fine, but the train on the way back from Kalampaka was sold out of seats, which I understood.  However, we could still get tickets, but we would have to stand.  I had trouble understanding why the train was sold out, but eventually I understood (with the help of a lot of gestures).  We got our tickets, and hopefully they’ll get us there and back with no issues.  Thinking about it now, it really wasn’t that bad, and we managed to get what we wanted.
The experience made me realize how spoiled we’ve been so far.  We go everywhere in groups and usually go to touristy places where people speak English pretty well.  Lots of signs are in English, and even on the metro, the station names and announcements are in Greek AND English.  I’ve never had to order a meal completely in Greek or ask directions or buy something using only Greek, until buying the train tickets today.  I’m going to try to use Greek a lot more, especially when they speak English, because then they can fill in the words I don’t know.  It’s easy to be lazy and assume everyone speaks English, especially when we travel in our big group of Americans.  I don’t want to feel like a tourist the whole time I am here, and one way I can feel less like a tourist is to start speaking (more like trying to speak) the language.  I also want to get to know Athens better, which has been difficult since I have been traveling every weekend since I got here.  The train for Kalampaka leaves tomorrow morning at 8:20, and there is wireless internet at our hotel, so my next post will be from Meteora.

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Three day trip to the Peloponnese

I am back from yet another journey, this time to the region of Greece called the Peloponnese.  The scenery on our trip was, yet again, magnificent.  We left Tuesday morning, and after a two-hour drive, arrived in Isthmia, which was a roadside sanctuary to Poseidon, but also the site of the Isthmian games (like the Olympic games, but in Isthmia).  We had a nice tour by a University of Chicago archeologist who was very excited to show us around.  Our next stop was Nemea, which was a sanctuary to Zeus and the site of the Nemean games.  The stadium still stands, and the boys in our program had a race in the spirit of Greek athletic competition, while the rest of us cheered.  It was almost like being at the Olympics. J  After leaving Nemea, we drove to Napflio, had lunch, and checked into our hotel.  After some free time, we went out for a group dinner at a local taverna.  I had stuffed tomatoes, which reminded me a lot of golabki.  I was glad they had some more variety at this restaurant because I’m starting to get sick of gyros and souvlaki.  After dinner, we went to an Italian gelato shop- yummy!

On Wednesday, we saw the remains at Mycenae, which were huge!  Up until now, we’ve been seeing a lot of rocks on the ground or standing columns at temples, but no actual walls that are still standing.  At Mycenae, the walls are definitely still standing, and they are quite impressive.  Tombs with all sorts of treasures inside were found at Mycenae, and we even descended into an underground cistern.  We had to use candles to see where we were going- it was pretty cool.  Next, we went to the Argive Heraion, which was the main sanctuary of Argos, with a temple to Hera.  The Heraion was also a big site with the foundations of the structures being easy to see.  An again, magnificent scenery.  Our last stop of the day was the museum of Argos.  During the afternoon, I explored the town, which is know for its jewelry, much of which is handmade.  It is beautiful, but also pricey.  I was content to just window shop.  That night we had another group dinner, and I had pastitsio, which is like lasagna.  Delicious!  After dinner, we tried a different gelato shop, which I think was better than the Italian one.  There is a fortress in Napflio called the Palamidhi fortress, and a group of us decided to try to climb up to the fortress after finishing our gelato.  There were eight of us, and we made it up all 888 steps (some stretches were not well lit at all).  The view was gorgeous!!

This morning, we drove up the mountain to see the fortress by day, then we went to TirynsTiryns was a settlement in the early Helladic period.  Our next stop was Epidavros, which was a sanctuary to Asklepios.  There is an amazing theatre there with perfect acoustics where the guests at the sanctuary would go for entertainment.  Our resident free-style rappers, Graham and Mike, busted out some beats on the stage.  We walked around the site, then drove to the modern town of Epidavros for lunch.

Our last stop before getting back to Athens was Perachora, where there was a temple for Hera.  There is also a beautiful beach; the water was so clear, and there were sea urchins living on the rocks.  I cannot express it in words- check out the pictures!

A bunch of us planned another trip this weekend since we don’t have class on Monday.  We’re going to Meteora.  I love seeing new places, but it is pretty tiring, so I’ll try to relax tomorrow after our visit to the National Museum.

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Easter in Santorini

I got back from my trip to Santorini with Meg and Sarah Sunday night.  The island is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen!  It still continues to amaze me how blue the sea is.  Too bad it’s still too cold to swim in. 
Our ferry to Santorini from Pireus was 7 hours long, with stops at Paros and Naksos, two other Greek islands.  I read about half of the Odyssey, our assigned reading for Easter break.  There were a lot of people on the ferry since everyone was going to the islands for Easter.  The seats are very comfortable, and there is a café and fast food restaurant on board.  I think I enjoy traveling by boat a lot more than traveling by plane.  The views of Santorini as the ferry was approaching were amazing: white buildings against the cliff.

We got driven to our hotel, Blue Sea Suites, by the shuttle provided by the hotel.  We got settled in, then explore Fira, the town.  There are a lot of small paths that intertwine, and we explore most of them.  The town is pretty small.  We had dinner at a fish taverna called Niki Taverna while we watched the sunset.  We had white Santorini wine, and I ordered the swordfish.  Later that night, we watched/walked in the Good Friday procession that started at the church and went around the town then back to the church.  The procession was led by soldiers, followed by the cross and the epitaphios, a large piece of cloth with the image of Christ which is decorated with flowers.  The people in the procession carry lit candles.  After the procession, we got lost, but eventually found the street back to our hotel.

On Saturday, we went shopping for souvenirs.  We learned that Santorini is known for its wine, capers, and fava beans.  A wine unique to Santorini is called vinsanto; it is a delicious and very sweet wine made from the remains of the grapes once normal wine is made.  I’m bringing a bottle home with me.  Ouzo is also made this way.  In the afternoon, we took the bus to Akrotiri, where there is a big excavation site, but it was closed.  We walked to the black and red beaches, then relaxed for a bit, taking in the view of the sea.  We then caught the bus to Perissa, a small town in the southeast part of the island.  Here we enjoyed the warmth of the sun on the beach.   Upon returning to Fira, we had dinner at another restaurant with an amazing view.  We went back to the hotel, intending to go back to the town at midnight to eat the traditional margeritsa, a soup made from the intestines of the lamb that is roasted for the Easter meal.

On Holy Saturday, people go to church at 10pm and the service lasts until 2am.  At midnight, fireworks go off and all the church bells ring because Jesus has risen from the dead.  After church, people eat the margeritsa.  Unfortunately, we took a “nap” at 10pm and didn’t wake up until 7am, so we didn’t get to eat the margeritsa.  I did hear the bells ringing and the fireworks going off though. 
On Easter Sunday, most everything in the town was closed, so we walked around and enjoyed the magnificent views one more time.  We even walked down the 587 steps to get to the old port.  We were relieved to see that the cable car was running, so we took that up to the top instead of walking back up the 587 steps.  Until it was time to leave to get to our ferry, we relaxed by the pool and read the Odyssey.  I ate tsoureki, the traditional Easter bread, that I had bought at a bakery the night before.  The ferry was a high speed one on the way back, and only took 5 hours, with stops at Xios and Paros.  We took a taxi back, which we are pretty sure ripped us off.  Not only that, he didn’t know where our apartment was, so we had to walk from the stadium!  I need to learn how to say “too much” in Greek. 
All in all, it was a great weekend in Santorini!  I got some sun and loved the beautiful views.
Yesterday, I went running at the Olympic Stadium, then did my laundry.  By “did my laundry”, I mean that I hand washed it.  All my clothes are still wearable.  J
We just arrived at our hotel at Napflio, where we will be until Thursday.  I’ll post more about that tomorrow.  

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

A museum more like what I’m used to

Today we visited the Acropolis Museum.  No photography was allowed, so I have no pictures to upload today.  Right as you are walking toward the museum is what I think is the coolest part: the floor is glass, and you can see what has been found below you.  It’s like looking into an archeological site.  They have the same thing inside the museum in some parts too.  The museum was full of pottery and statues that have been found in the area of the Acropolis, and the reconstructed parts of the frieze and metopes that used to be decorating the Parthenon before they were removed.  This was the first museum we’ve been to so far that is like the museums I am used to going to.  Artifacts are on display in glass cases with labels, there are guards around to make sure you don’t touch anything, etc.  There are also small models of what the area around the Acropolis used to look like, and this helped me visualize where all these objects would have been used and what people living during those times would have seen.  This was something that I had trouble doing at the other sites and museums.  Other than the models, the other museums we went to and this one really aren’t that different.  Even though the Acropolis Museum is shiny and new, its purpose is still to display the things we have found from the past.  The other museums lack the grandeur of the Acropolis Museum, but still do their job well.

After the museum, Nacho and I explored Athens with a nice 2 hour walk.  We were trying to find a souvlaki place, but all we were finding were cafes.  Cafes here don’t serve food, only coffee and other drinks, so that wasn’t going to help us since we were hungry.  We walked around and got a feel for the area a bit more.  Eventually we found what we were looking for- a place called Dionysus.  We got delicious souvlaki there and then ice cream afterward at an apparently famous ice cream place.  At the ice cream place, we talked to the guy working there and his friend about places we might want to see in Greece.  Everyone is so nice and friendly at the shops!
Tomorrow, bright and early (7:30am), I’m catching a ferry to Santorini.  I’m not bringing my computer, so no posts until I get back (Monday).  

Καλό πάσχα! (Happy Easter!)

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS