Thessaloniki II

Thursday was another busy day.  In the morning, we went to the Byzantine Museum and the Archeological Museum of Thessaloniki.  It was a long morning of walking around museums.  They had interesting gold jewelry from the Byzantine period, among many other artifacts.  After the museums, we went to see the Arch of Galerius and the Rotunda.  The Rotunda was closed, however, so we only saw the outside.  

The next stop was the Palace of Galerius which is right in the middle of a square, so there is a clash of old and new.  There were also cool floor mosaics that had been restored.  Mosaics are one of my favorite things to see here.  After seeing the palace, we walked back to the hotel, and I went back to the market.  I found a whole other section I had not seen on Wednesday, with clothes shops.  After the market, I found Trigones Elenidis, a pastry shop specializing in trigones (triangular pastries with cream in them).  I walked past the bakery twice before I finally found it.  It was a pretty small place and not exactly on the corner as I had been expecting, so it was harder to find than I had expected, but in the end, I found it!  The trigona I got was very good.  I ate it while sitting by the sea and the White Tower.  

In the evening, we went to the Acheiropoieitos and Agia Sophia churches.  They were each unique and from the early years of Christianity, with beautiful mosaics and icons.  For dinner, I went to the Zithos beerhouse and had mavti, a homemade pasta with meat inside served on a bed of yogurt.  It was good to try something new, and I really liked it.  After dinner, we went to another bakery for some yummy dessert.
Yesterday we drove a lot.  We made one stop at Dion, a big archeological park that was the site of a main sanctuary and city in ancient Macedonia. 

Other than that, we drove 6 hours to get back to Athens.  It’s was really warm evening, so we went to go see Sex and the City 2 at an open air movie theater.  Today is supposed to be a beautiful day, so I’m going to the beach.  J

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Thessaloniki

On Tuesday, we made our way to Thessaloniki, the second largest city in Greece.  Most of the day was spent driving, since it is about a 7-8 hour drive.  On the way, we stopped at Thermopylae, the site of the famous battle of the Spartans and the Persians which the graphic novel and movie 300 is based on.  There is a monument next to the highway and a plaque at the top of a small hill.  It’s not as awe-inspiring as you might expect.  Once we got to Thessaloniki, we went to dinner at a taverna where I had soutzukakia (like meatballs, but in a log shape) with yogurt sauce.  Delicious!!

This morning, we went to Vergina, the site of a tumulus covering three royal tombs.  The tombs are incorporated into the museum, which is very cool.  There is controversy over who is buried in which graves, so it is interesting to see how the museum has chosen to label and present this information.  After returning to Thessaloniki, we had some free time, so I walked around and explored the city.  I like this city better than Athens.  It may be that I’m just sick of Athens, but Thessaloniki seems more alive, whereas Athens is grungier and more depressing.  I walked by the Rotunda, the Arch of Galerius, the Agia Sophia church (which was closed), the Agiou Ioannou church and catacombs, Bey Hamam (Turkish baths), which now hosts art exhibits, and finally ended up at Modiano Market, where they sell fresh fish and meat as well as all sorts of sweets.  I love markets!!  Thessaloniki has my two favorite things about Greece in one place: open air markets and the sea.  Before going back to the hotel, I got some tsoureki bread covered in chocolate from a famous bakery- yum!! I sat by the sea eating my treat, then went back to the hotel, where we were meeting. 

We went to Osios David, one of the oldest Christian churches with a pre-Iconoclast image and then to Aghios Dimitrios, the church of the patron saint of Thessaloniki.  We went down into the crypt, the site of the Roman baths where St. Demitrios was killed.  For dinner, we went to a fish tavern for some fresh seafood.  We had four different kinds of fish and mussels!  They also had a guitar there, so we had a really great time singing songs.  It was a lot of fun.  Tomorrow is another full day of sightseeing.

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Long Weekend in Athens

Today is a holiday in Greece, so there was a long weekend (even though we usually don’t have class on Mondays, so we have long weekends most weeks anyway).  On Saturday, I decided to get all my souvenir and gift shopping done, so I spent the morning in Plaka and Monastiraki.  I got most of it accomplished, but I went back today for a few more things.  In the evening, a few of us went to hear live rebetika (Greek blues).  I really liked it!!  On Sunday, the weather was beautiful, so I went to the beach.  I wanted to try out a new beach, Glyfada, but it was rocky, so I went to another one I had heard of, Voulos, but that charged a fee to get on the beach.  I ended up back at 2nd Agiou Kosmos, the same beach as last time, which is clean and sandy.  I think I’ve found my favorite beach near Athens. J  We played paddle ball and relaxed.  Today, I finished my gift shopping and went for a run at the stadium.  Tomorrow we leave for our 4-day trip to Thessaloniki!!

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Corinth and Free Time


I can't believe that after this weekend, I only have 2 weeks left in Greece!  Time has gone by so quickly.  I have to say that I am going to be glad to be done with classes and go to Poland.
On Wednesday, we took a trip to Corinth, which was an important city during ancient times.  We got shown around by the archeologist who excavated the site, which was great because our current professor does not know too much about ancient Greece (he's an English professor).  We climbed to the top of Acrocorinth.  The view was amazing!

Yesterday, we had a free morning and wanted to play volleyball, but as there was another general strike yesterday, the courts at the National Gardens were closed.  We played at a park nearby for a while but got kicked out by the mothers there.  Then we tried to play at the Stadium, but again we got kicked out.  Not a very successful morning for volleyball...
This morning, we had a walking tour of modern Athens.  We saw the Zappeion, Parliament, the National Library, the Academy, the National Museum, and the cathedral.  Most of us are very familiar with these sites since we pass them a lot when we walk around Athens.  Our professor didn't know very much about the sites, so it was a tiring morning.  Tonight there's a talk about the economic crisis in Greece that I think will be very interesting.  I'm looking forward to a relaxing weekend.

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Spring Break (Part III): London

On Thursday evening, we took the RER to Charles de Gaulle Airport, but we thought our flight was an hour later than it was, so we missed it.  We were able to get tickets for the first flight the next morning, but that meant that we had to stay at the airport overnight. 
We flew to London the next morning, then took the EasyBus from Luton Airport to Victoria Station, then took the Underground to our hostel.  Our hostel, Hyde Park Inn, was right by a tube stop and in an area with lots of restaurants and souvenir shops.  We dropped off our luggage, then went to lunch an Asian fusion restaurant called the Banana Tree Canteen.  We were so hungry!!  For dessert, we got delicious frozen yogurt from a place called Frog right near our hostel.  That afternoon, we visited the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, stopped by the Borough Market for a bit to get some free samples, walked past the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre, and saw the London Bridge and the Millennium Bridge.  


Next we went to St. Paul’s Cathedral and Picadilly Circus, which has a lot of theatres.  For dinner we had fish and chips with Stella Artois, a very British meal. J After dinner, we went back to the hostel, and then I met up with my cousin, Pawel, who lives in London.  We went to a pub and caught up over some Guinness.  Pubs in London are only open until 11pm, which seems so early since now I’m used to the super late lifestyle of the Greeks. 

Saturday, we walked around the Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park, then took a free walking tour of Royal London.  We saw Wellington Arch, Buckingham Palace and a little bit of the changing of the guards (since there were so many people there, it was hard to see), Green Park, St. James’ Palace, the Athena Club, which is where rich old men go to drink whiskey and smoke cigars while sharing stories), Trafalgar Square, the back of 10 Downing Street, St. Steven’s Tower (Big Ben is the clock on the tower), Westminster Abbey, and the Houses of Parliament.  


After the tour, we walked by the London Eye on our way to Borough Market, where we had delicious food and desserts!  I love any kind of market!!  After we were full, we went to another market, Camden Market, in Camden Town, where we shopped for clothes and jewelry.  For dinner, we went to Brick Lane, the street in London with lots of Indian restaurants, and ate some delicious Indian food.  That night, I met up with my cousin and his wife, Anna, and we went to another pub and then to see Tower Bridge by night. 

On Sunday morning, we took a bus to Gatwick Airport (London has so many airports!) and had no problems with our flight to Athens.  We were a bit worried because the volcanic ash from the Icelandic volcano was disrupting some flights to Ireland, but our flight was not affected.  I was so tired when we got back.  I had a great time this week, but it was also nice to be back in Athens and not have to worry about being on time for any more flights or trains or checking into any more hostels.  Now there are only three weeks of class remaining!  

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Spring Break (Part II): Paris

J'aime beaucoup Paris!!
Yesterday morning, we had our petit dejeuner of croissant with butter and jam, orange juice, cereal, and coffee at the hostel and went for a free walking tour of Paris.  It was 3 1/2 hours long, but we saw a lot of the important sites in Paris. 

We saw the Notre Dame cathedral, the Palais de Justice, the Pont Neuf, the Pont des Arts (where couples place locks on the bridge then throw the key into the water to symbolize their eternal love- so cute!), l'Academie, the Louvre, the Palais Royal, the Jardin de Tulieres, and the Obelisque.  Our tour guide as very good.  After the tour ended, I walked down the Champs Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe (the traffic around it is CRAZY) and then to the Eiffel Tower.  After that, I walked to the Ecole Militaire and then to Les Invalides, where Napoleon's tomb is and where there is still a hospital.
I walked across the Pont de Alexandre on my way to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais and then wandered around some touristy shops where I bought a beret (!) among other things.  I also saw the Madeleine, the Opera, and In the evening, I went to the Louvre and saw the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and the inverted pyramid on the way out.  That museum is huge, and I didn't have very much time there, but I saw the most famous pieces.  Sarah and I grabbed a sandwich for dinner before we saw Date Night (translated Crazy Night in French) at a theatre on the Camps Elysees.  There was a special at the theatre so we only paid 3.50 euro for the movie.  It was in English with French subtitles and very funny!  I enjoyed it a lot!!  After the movie ended, we walked to the Eiffel Tower to see it lit up at night.  It glitters at certain times, which was very cool!  We took the metro back to our hostel, and I got a crepe on the way.

This morning, we went by the Panthon and went back to the Notre Dame and went inside.  The stained glass windows are amazing, as are the statues on the outside of the building by the doors.  The Fait du Pain (Party of Bread) was going on outside the cathedral, so we got to see how baguettes are made.  They roll the dough with their hands then put it in a cloth which they bunch up between the loaves.  It's very simple.  After leaving the cathedral, we walked around and explored the area, stopping in Shakespeare and Company, and English bookstore where famous authors like Ernest Hemingway spent their time while they were living in Paris.  We had crepes and espresso for lunch, and we are going to go to the markets along the street where our hostel is and buy baguettes, meat, cheese, vegetables, and wine for dinner.  Our flight to London is at 10pm tonight. I am sad to leave Paris- I like it a lot here.  I'll have to come back and visit again!
Au revoir!

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Spring Break (Part I): Marseille and a little bit of Paris

On Saturday morning, we flew from Athens to Paris using Easyjet.  This is my first experience flying with Easyjet, and I have to say that I don't have the best opinion of them after this one flight.  The flight was delayed 40 minutes when we got to the airport, and boarding was SO SLOW that the flight took off an hour later than scheduled.  I sat next to a very annoying group of people.  Thank goodness the flight was only about 3 1/2 hours.  The flight attendants are very non-chalant and somewhat professional.
I'm traveling with my friend Sarah, whio is studying in Athens in the same program as me, this entire week, but we flew with another friend that was going to spend the week in Paris.  Her boyfriend met us at the airport and gave us an intro to the metro and RER system.


Our hostel for Saturday night was in Montmarte, on a very busy street.  For my first hostel experience, it wasn't too bad.  The area was a bit iffy, but we had an early train to catch so we weren't out late.  That afternoon, we went to see the Sacre Coeur church, but we got lost on the way.  A very nice, older Parisian man saw that we were lost and led us to the base of the hill where the church is located.  French people are nice!  The Sacre Coeur has beautiful architecture and on the inside has a lot of shrines to different saints aroudn the peri,eter of the church.  We happened to be walking around inside when a service began, and the acoustics of the church made the nuns voices sound so pure.  It was beautiful.  When we left, it started to rain, and I hadn't brought my umbrella, so Sarah bought one, and we continued our exploration of Paris.  We walked to the Place de le Republique, saw the Marie du 10eme, then stopped by a supermarket to buy sandwiches for dinner.  I noticed that in Greece, everyone sits outside at the cafes drinking coffee, but here people sit at the cafes and bratisseries drinking beer or wine.

Sunday morning we took the train to Marseille.  Our hostel was much nicer there, and I met Christen and her friends there.  They were coming from Nice.  Marseille is the second largest city in France and was originally a Greek colony, but you can't tell.  There we saw the Vieux Port, which is just the main port, the Notre Dame du Gard, which is a church dedicated to the fishermen of the area, so it has a nautical theme, the Ville Charite, which was an orphanage and is now a museum, and the Nuveau Catedral, which was stunning.  I had a crepe with Nutella for dinner. :) I probably won't have another one while I'm here- it was way too sweet.
Monday morning, we took a ferry to see the Chateau d'If, which used to house a prison and was made famous by being the prison in Count of Monte Cristo. 

After that we walked along the shore- the weather was beautiful, warm and sunny.  Next we went to the Palace de Longchamps, which is a fountain/park/museum.  This was my favorite part of the trip to Marseille.  I'll post pictures later, since I don't have my laptop with me to get the pictures off my camera.  For dinner, I wanted to get the boulebaise, the fish soup that Marseille is known for, but the restaurant we went to was out of mussels so I had just the fish broth instead.  Close enough.  It was very salty, but I'm glad I tried it.  Earlier that day, we had also bought navettes, which are cookies that are only made in Marseille.  I think they are flavored with lavendar.  I like them, and even bought a chocolate version the next day.  In the evening, we went to a pub and got some French beer, 1664.

This morning, we visited some more palaces: Palais de le Bourse and Palais d'les Artes.  They were not as impressive as Longchamps, but still nice.  Then we saw the Fontaine Castellene and bought some shoes. :)
We caught our train back to Paris, found our hostel, which is in the Latin Quarter, and now we will do some more exploring.  It is very cold, about 50°, and raining.  Hopefully it'll warm up some tomorrow!

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Protests

There is a general strike in Athens today with protests in Syndagma Square.  I live about a 15 minute walk from Syndagma but sitting here at the Athens Centre, there is no indication in this neighborhood that anything out of the ordinary is going on.  It's too dangerous to go to Syndagma to see what's going on, so I'm getting all my info from online news sources.  It's been reported that a fire bomb was thrown at a bank in Syndagma, and that three people died and four were trapped because of it.  As I was walking back from the National Archeological Museum yesterday, we came across a protest march and as we walked through Syndagma, there were riot police starting to line up and streets were being roped off.  I was glad to be walking away from the square, not towards it.  The general strike today caused us to alter our class schedule, since we were supposed to go to Eleusis today, but it is closed because of the strike.  The plan is to go tomorrow, so hopefully things die down a little by then.  
It frustrates me that we are so isolated from the current situation here.  We are so focused on our study of the ancient Greek world, that we really can't relate to the modern Greek one.  I have not met a single Greek person my age so far.  How am I supposed to get a real sense of what is going on if I don't even know any "real" Greeks? 
Here's some more info about today's events:
http://www.cnn.com/2010/WORLD/europe/05/05/greece.strikes/index.html?iref=allsearch
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703961104575225472577513414.html?mod=WSJEUROPE_hpp_LEFTTopStories

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

The Week in Review

Once again, it’s been a while since I’ve written a post.  In my defense, I couldn’t turn my computer on, and we were traveling.  I got a charger for my computer, so the first problem is fixed, and we aren’t doing any traveling with the program this week, so that’s not an excuse anymore either.
Here’s what’s been going on this past week:
Last Saturday, I wanted to go to the Opera to see La Boheme, but the student tickets were all sold out, so we didn’t go.  In the evening, we went out in Psyrri, one of the main neighborhoods for nightlife in Athens.  We found a bar with dancing and an American DJ.  It was a lot of fun, but the DJ didn’t play any Greek music, so maybe next time we’ll try to go somewhere more Greek.  Also, there weren’t many people our age there.  I’ve heard that people our age (college students) don’t really go out in Athens because they are focused on their studies and don’t have the money to be going out.  This should be the case for us too, but we want to see Athens in its entirety. J  Those that do go out tend to be high school kids and people in their late 20s and early 30s, because they have jobs (well... at least they're not in school anymore).  The place didn’t really get going until about 1 or 2am.  The Greeks stay out so late!  We didn’t get back home until 5am! 

On Sunday, the weather was a bit chilly, and it drizzled a little, so it was too cold for the beach, so we went to the Athens flea market.  There is a section that is a traditional flea market with a lot of antiques, but mostly it is just an area with a few streets of stores selling gift, souvenirs, clothes, etc.  It is very busy on Sunday mornings.  I happened to run into a friend of mine from high school who I haven’t talked to in 3 years!  She is studying in Rome and was in Athens for the weekend.  How crazy is that?!
On Monday, I had to do more laundry (by hand, of course).  I’m getting to be very efficient at it, and it is nowhere as bad as the first time I did it.  Actually, it’s not that bad. 

We went to the Theatre of Dionysos on Tuesday.  It is at the base of the Acropolis and hosted a yearly dramatic festival in honor of Dionysos, the god of drama.  After the morning excursion, I went to find a store that had a charger for my laptop, and in the process of looking for the store, a friend and I found another farmer’s market!!  This one was bigger than the one in our area and had a lot of clothes, shoes, and accessories in addition to fruits and vegetables.  We are definitely going back tomorrow (the farmer’s markets are only one day a week).  

On Wednesday, we departed for our three day trip to Delphi and Olympia.  Our first stop was the Osios Loukas monastery.  This monastery was not as strict as the ones in Meteora, and the women did not have to wear skirts over their pants.  The church had some beautifully preserved gold mosaic portraits of religious figures on the ceilings.  In the afternoon, we visited the Delphi lower site, the Temple to Athena.  

The town of Delphi is very small, with only 2 streets, so a few of us decided to try to find the footpath up Mt. Parnassus.  We never found it, but we did find a modern theatre with really good acoustics near the convention center.  

Thursday was spent visiting the upper site at Delphi, home of the Temple of Apollo and the oracle there.  People would come from all around to get prophecies from the oracle, which would be given by a priestess of the temple who was in a trance.  We drove to Olympia in the evening and had a group dinner there.
   
On Friday, we spent the day at the ancient site of Olympia, the home of the ancient Olympic games.  The site is huge!  The Temple of Zeus there was home to the statue of Zeus that was one of the wonders of the ancient world, but it no longer exists.  We had to give presentations on different buildings there, and then we had a race in the original stadium!  Olympia was my favorite site of this short trip.  The drive home was a whopping 5 hours!

On Saturday, it was Labor Day in Greece, and all the shops and grocery stores were closed.  There was a protest in Syndagma Square, which got pretty violent.  I wanted to go see what was going on, but we had been warned against it, so we went to the beach instead.  We found a nicer and cleaner beach than the one we went to last time, only a few tram stops after Edem.  The weather was beautiful, and the sun was shining.  I bought a paddle ball game that I see everyone playing on the beach- it’s really fun!  I’m definitely bringing it home to play on the beach in Chicago.  It was even warm enough to go for a swim in the sea.  I think May 1st is the official opening day for the beaches here because there were a lot more people at the beach than last time.  We may have been a bit too early before.  In the evening, we went out in Psyrri again, but didn’t stay out as late as last time.  

Yesterday I did more laundry.  I’m really becoming efficient at it. J
Today, as usual on Monday, we didn’t have class.  I finally got a charger for my computer!  Just in time because we have a ten page paper due on Friday.  Once I get that done, we have a week off for spring break!  I’m going to Paris, Marseilles, and London.  I am SO EXCITED!!!!

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS